“The door’s going to be where the door is,” Wylie Dufresne said last Thursday afternoon, standing in a space in the East Village that will soon become his new restaurant, Alder. “We’re not moving the door.”
Well, you never know. Mr. Dufresne, the pioneering, science-friendly chef who once deconstructed and reassembled eggs Benedict at his Lower East Side restaurant, WD-50, is famous for upending a diner’s expectations of where something is supposed to be. People won’t “eat the door” at Alder, as Mr. Dufresne joked, but they will eat radically new versions of dishes they might assume they know well.
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